Flush-mounted TM Aluminum Boat Pedal

I just got my Lowe bass boat and it appears to have a "pre-made" place for my pedal to be flushmouted!

The opening is 8.5" x 10.5". The pedal will fit. I will need to remove the lid and deep plastic tray. They are riveted on to the aluminum deck. Is there any easy way to remove rivets? Is the center a good place for the pedal control?

-The best way to remove the rivets I guess is to drill them out and I would ask your Lowe dealer for the insert for the pedal as they should have them. Center is a good place but really depends on your height and the postion of you pole in front. I would place your pedal in that location and see how it feels. If that location feels good you are in business but if it feels awkward then you might want to not install the insert and leave it on top of the deck. and then secure it to the deck so it doesnt move while using it.

- Also some folks never get used to a flush mount pedal. I have a flush mount on the Antique Kitten, and a deck mount in the tin Whacko. Both seem to work ok for me, but I didn't skimp on the trolling motors either. I'm pretty much sold on the Motor Guide Tour Edition TMs. As long as I can afford it you will not find anything else on my boats.

An electric drill is an excellent tool for spinning pop rivbets in their holes for all of eternity. Nothing else seems to work better. LOL. Seriously make sure you have a good sharp bit. Then for a little extra hold to keep the rivet from spinning punch it into the metal below two or three times with a sharp cold chisel. Then when drilling hold the rivet down firmly with the drill. Also use a bit very close to the size of the hole its in. If the rivet does spin on you then you can always cut it off with the cvold chisel, but its likely to leave some scratches aor even light gouges (depending on your skill with your hands) in the surfaces around it.

If you need to rivet your recessed pan in place or you decide to put the plate back make sure you either use all aluminum pop rivets with an aluminum shaft also, or that you use a low profice head all staniless sheet metal screw. I am very specific as to this because high iron parts will react with aluminum relatively quickly. Steel shaft pop rivets leave the head of the shaft below which can fall into the bilge of your boat. rust, and eventually eat through the hull. Non-stainless screws will rust on a boat period, but on an aluminum boat they can react with the aluminum you are putting them in as well. Aluminum has a strong dis-similar metals reaction with most other metals, and regular iron content steel is about as bad as it gets.

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